Chez Nous in Tulbagh

High summer in the Boland

2012-01-16T23:12:00.002+02:00

Due to general holiday season busyness, I have neglected my little blog shamefully! And here we are in 2012 already halfway through January. It's perishing hot in these parts right now, typical Boland high summer weather, but very necessary for the ripening and harvesting of fruit, especially GRAPES! Oftimes we have to endure the south-easter (prevailing summer wind) but once again we don't complain, as it is air-conditioning for - you guessed - grapes! In any event the village is a little sheltered, being in the lee of a hill - think the voorvaders sited the town well. Neither the heat nor the wind last long, generally there is a temperature inversion at night and it is such a relief when that fist of heat relaxes and opens to a cooling breeze off the West Coast.

I must say I love this season of being able to live in a bathing costume and sarong. Sometimes the magnificent cupola of mountains that surround our village look like dreams of themselves, shimmering like a mirage in the heat haze. I also like floating in the pool at night, gazing up at the grand gesture of the Milky Way in the heavens - the night sky is splendid here because there is little light pollution.When the moon is full I love being able to see the silent ring of mountains standing sentinel beyond the lights of the village, and to listen to the cicadas sing the song of the night. I also like to water the garden late at night and walk barefoot on the spongy wet lawn starred with droplets reflecting a myriad of tiny moons...

Scary stuff...

Latterly we've had some distressing veld fires - being a winter rainfall area it is tinder dry at this time of the year and a little spark can go a long way. Recently almost the whole Obiqua range of mountains including the forestry reserves went up, fanned by the wind along their length, and we had a week of choking in smoke with soot raining down. However, every disaster contains the seeds of its redemption - one being the amazing way the community rallies to help affected individuals and the tremendous effort that went into feeding and generally supporting the firefighters.When the season turns those blackened mountains will be greener than green, the fynbos fertilised by the ash.

Wedding Venue Walkabout

2011-10-27T15:52:00.001+02:00

Fellow accommodation suppliers and others were privileged to go on a tour of Tulbagh's wedding venues this week. What a wonderful day we had, and it made us even more appreciative of the beautiful valley we live in. Every single venue is unique and always those glorious mountain views which offer such spectacular photographic opportunities... All six are situated on working wine or fruit farms with the special ambiance that brings, either with chapels attached or gorgeous garden gazebos. Brides can also choose to hold the ceremony in the quaint museum church in the village - fourth oldest in the country and the only one in its original condition. From ultra-modern Morgansvlei to historic Montpellier (with its charming chapel in the vineyards); secluded Roodezant and verdant Mont Rouge, Rijk's boutique country hotel with its signature iceberg roses and stylish Manley's, every taste is catered to - AND at very reasonable prices. Not only are facilities affordable, but happy couples can source every need for a successful wedding right here in Tulbagh with local suppliers - from gifted photographers, florists, hairdressers and make-up artists to fabulous food (and wines, of course!) not to mention comfortable and affordable accommodation for themselves and their guests...
Here are some websites - do yourselves a favour and have a gander!
www.capecountryweddings.co.za
www.manleywinelodge.co.za
www.montpellier.co.za
www.morgansvlei.com
www.rijkscountryhouse.co.za

The joys of country living...

2011-10-09T11:45:00.000+02:00

Isn't it wonderful to know where your veggies come from, and also that they are totally organic? Recently I was blessed with bushels of spinach, now blanched and happily residing in the freezer to feature in future scrumptiousnesses. Soon I will be laying in crates of locally grown sun-ripened tomatoes. I skin and render them down for freezing in recycled margarine bakkies, enough to see us through next winter for all those delicious soups, bredies and pasta sauces...

Although olive trees only bear properly every second year, I had a record crop off two of my five trees in the garden which I have just bottled (making over 40 jars!). For the uninitiated it is a labour of love to leach the bitterness out of them (now we know why the most prolific genus is called Mission!). I preserve mine with fresh spring shoots of rosemary also from my garden, and the jars are recycled, naturally.
Whilst on that topic we are so thankful that a wonderful recycling initiative has come to Tulbagh - now we can safely dispose of cans, glass, paper and plastic, knowing that not only are we doing the right thing but that it is providing work for the disabled in our community as well as funding tokens to feed hungry children...

All the pretty horses (and flowers)

2011-10-09T11:16:00.001+02:00

It's springtime in our lovely valley and blooming into summer - the best of the flower season is already over. The arums have been particularly prolific this year - obviously they liked the early winter rain. Here is a pic of the flower hall taken at the annual Spring Show demonstrating the point, and the proteas were also rather fine! The hall is prepared by enthusiastic volunteers, working with farmers and Cape Nature Conservation, who carefully select a cross-section of wildflowers for display in as natural an environment as possible.
At this time of year the valley is still gloriously green, although already the wheat is starting to ripen presaging harvest time. Driving anywhere in the Boland one is treated to drifts of flowers along the roadsides and sometimes the glory of golden canola in between the ubiquitous wheat and fields dotted with sheep. I am pleased to tell you the vines are sprouting too! Hats off to our enterprising farmers who not only victual the nation but give us something special to wash it down with!

Apart from flowers and showcasing agricultural prowess, the Tulbagh Spring Show is actually an equestrian event of note - this year featuring the SA Championships. Ah those gorgeous prancing horses, gleaming and rippling with muscle, with their well groomed tails streaming behind them like smoke... what a joy to behold!
At the end of October Tulbagh will also host the 2011 Witzenberg Summer Show featuring amongst other delights (such as the Cape Coons) the pony championships and hackney horse show.
Chez Nous has only two cottages still available for this event!

Heritage Day

2011-09-24T21:31:00.003+02:00

Along with many other folk in sunny SA we celebrated with a traditional braai. It was a balmy spring day in Tullieland, the sun gently warm with a slight breeze. While I was fraternising with my friends at Fraaigelegen, my guests were happily braaiing in our back garden and my boys doing likewise with their pals! There is something about the scent of woodsmoke and marinade charring on the coals which is deeply atavistic - and very familiar, as it wafts around Tulbagh at least every Saturday and often Wednesdays (klein Saterdag) too. So here is Andrew explaining the mystique of meat to Pierre - who is looking skeptical because he is in fact our champion braaier!

Nataniel's tips on braai etiquette were circulated on the e-waves earlier in the week - in his inimitable style he tells us braaiing must be taken very, very seriously. In the old days your butcher was almost family; in any event you saw him more than your doctor. Today supermarket shelves have replaced faces and the younger generation has gotten out of touch with what constitutes a good cut of meat - packaging definitely does not make up for deficiencies in the contents! The basic rule of thumb is the thicker the better and wors must bend without breaking when it comes off the coals. Steak must be eaten medium to rare - if you like it well done you should rather resort to a blowtorch and he recommends running into a wall - repeatedly - to get your ideas right. Nataniel also lists appropriate topics of conversation around the braai fire - rugby, 4x4 bakkies and the neighbour's wife's bikini tan lines are much more acceptable than politics, interest rates or babies. Fishing tales must be kept until everyone is half drunk so they can join in talking nonsense. In addition your braaier must be treated with suitable deference, as his braai fork is in fact a scepter!

Just by the way, Tulbagh itself is of course a wonderful heritage treasure. The town dates back over 350 years and is the fourth oldest in the country. Church Street is the only street in South Africa where every house is a national monument (each gable is different too!) and the museum church the only one of its kind preserved in its original state. Take a stroll down memory lane, see the earthquake display and visit No 27 which is a step back in time to how life was lived in the early 1700s. Now one can also take a short hike along the Galgeheuwel meander through the fynbos to a lookout point above Tulbagh which offers lovely views of this special village.

A Tulbagh Master

2011-08-24T22:06:00.003+02:00

Last night I was privileged to attend the opening of the new Christo Coetzee House Museum and Gallery in our little dorp. The heavens opened just as we were en route, and we nearly got stuck in the drift with damp spark plugs! On arrival and whilst battling with umbrellas and eyeing the leiwater ditch in which a churning torrent raged, I was just bewailing the tragic dearth of true gentlemen who will come to the aid of damsels in distress, when lo! Sir Walter Raleigh himself appeared and ushered us all safely inside... o ye of little faith! Despite the weather rent-a-crowd had turned out in force, and the more the wine and delicious local bubbly flowed the more intelligent the conversation - after awhile we all fancied ourselves art critics!
What a wonderful restoration of the famous artist's former home - a Rhenish missionary house - and studio. For the opening many works on loan from the University of Pretoria and other private collections are swelling the standing collection. There is also a fascinating photographic record of Coetzee's Tulbagh years by well-known photographer Jean du Plessis, and his wife Ferrie Binger-Coetzee's work is also on display. Coetzee's claim to fame is documented as: “broadening art in the sense that he contributed to the fading of the traditional boundaries between painting and sculpture and because he insisted on viewer participation in the creative process. As Marcel Duchamp is today known as the twentieth-century father of conceptualism, so Coetzee is the most important innovative artist in South Africa.” Of course, being a complete philistine, I liked the floor best - a chunk of the original preserved bespattered by the tools of his trade, and also his worktable, similarly decorated...

Not only is the museum a major new point of interest in our town, it has also been the impetus for the very first Tulbagh Spring Arts Festival to take place this coming weekend (see the full delightfully varied programme on www.tulbaghtourism.co.za). We are so excited - as it is very much in tune with the ethos and ambiance of our special little historical dorp - and we dearly hope it will become an annual event.

Sop & Soeters

2011-07-27T10:24:00.000+02:00

So here is Team Tulbagh trickling round the cellars of the Breede Valley on the annual Sop & Soeters weekend... At the first venue one purchases an enamel mug into which soup is ladled and then one gets to taste all the sweet wines - hanepoot, muscadel, Jerepigo, late harvest, port - which one can then purchase at discounted prices. Of course, being seasoned troupers, we tasted everything else on offer as well - including witblitz - thank God for Melvin our designated driver!

We agreed that the biltong & blue cheese soup at Slanghoek was very good, as was the roasted red pepper and tomato with homemade Worcestershire Sauce at Opstal. Badsberg boasted a mushroom & port special and Botha's Hill curried chicken and crunchy veg. Some cellars had real country craft and comestibles (no Nigerians!) and one could even do food & wine pairing at various venues. It was a wonderful day altogether...

BTW en route spotted some crazed mountain bike fiends pedalling furiously against a strong headwind in the Wolseley MTB Challenge - thought our choice of spending Saturday infinitely preferable!

Country life is never dull - there is always something going on. At the end of August Tulbagh will be hosting a Spring arts festival centering around the opening of the Christo Coetzee museum and celebrating the arts in their myriad forms. In September it is our Spring Show - an agricultural and equestrian event with a wildflower display - and in October the Witzenberg Summer Show. Then we're into cherry picking season and TJ's summer elegance festival...

AND I'm told by people passing through Namaqualand that it is greener than they've seen it in years, which bodes well for the flowers this year!

Winter wonderland!

2011-06-25T12:16:00.000+02:00

This is a pic taken this very morning by local photographer Norman Collins - after all that wild weather the clouds lifted and we are looking at little Switzerland!
It is our annual Christmas in Winter festival this very weekend, so it feels rather appropriate. Chez Nous is full of guests - stall holders, sound technicians, honeymooners and festival goers. There is a cornucopia of events on offer - ranging from rocking with Santa to a chilli eating competition. All the restaurants are offering special fare around their log fires; the theatre had some hot jazz last night and tonight the Cape Welsh Choir will be performing. My friend Andrew does the honours as Santa Claus, distributing sweets to the children in Church Street. Those doing the wine route can glug gluhwein and line the innards with hearty soup and crusty bread. At TJ they are offering oysters and sushi a la Wasabi, nogal! and Miss Kalina Claus is dispensing kisses for charity! Lemberg are doing a cheese fondue and Waverley irresistible lamb shanks in Shiraz or oxtail in Merlot. Rijks is putting up mulled wine and mince pies, our gifted chocolatier is offering hot chocolate with chocolate macaroons. Paddagang, renowned for best Boland cuisine including a mean Cape brandy tart, hosted an evening with Emile Minnie last night and today it is the turn of Brian Ferris, big screen rugby and rock band Blue Sky tonight. Truly something for everyone's taste...

Wonderful Wolseley!

2011-06-14T21:24:00.000+02:00

Last weekend I was privileged to be invited on a walkabout of Wolseley, our neighbouring dorpie approximately 15km distant. The little town definitely does not have the historic ambiance of Tulbagh, but it IS greener (due to leiwater from the nearby Breede River). Amongst other delights we were given a most interesting lecture on a Boer War blockhouse still stolidly standing - some wag had something to say about British engineering! - in the orchards overlooking the railway line. While they never saw any action this far south, it was amazing to imagine 20 men living at close quarters in that seemingly impregnable little fortress - not exactly your modern guesthouse! Now its only resident is an owl...

Then we moved on to see two wedding-cum-conference venues - Waverley Hills Estate with its commanding view of the Breede valley and brand new Olive Rock on the banks of the Breede - both equally appealing in their different ways. The former are very proud of their certified organic wine and olives, crowned by international accolade, and have followed word with deed by initiating a fascinating eco-project with the local schools aimed at monitoring and cleaning the local rivers. One can take guided walking tours on the mountain and the two fynbos nurseries are definitely worth a visit, as is the beautiful indigenous garden. In addition, Fina makes fabulous food in the restaurant as well as catering to functions - and they have excavated part of the cellar to form a most unusual underground chapel.

I must just also share with you the best biltong in the area is obtainable from Trastevere Butchery in Wolseley (with apologies to Willem Slagter in Tulbagh!).

Saronsberg Theatre

2011-06-07T10:11:00.002+02:00

We are winding down into winter - the days have drawn in and periodic rain is greening the countryside. Personally I love this season best of all - after the busyness of harvest the roads are quieter and peace settles upon our lovely village. Most of the restaurants boast log fires and it is always a treat to see a show in our gorgeous little theatre... I was there last Saturday to see "Bye Ma - JayPee" a wonderful one-man show by Chris van Niekerk full of humour and pathos.

Cliff Coetzee - who runs the theatre - loves jazz, so we are frequently treated to fabulous sessions. 'The Blues' may be best defined as 'feeling real bad and real good at the same time'. Here is a pic of local son Albert Frost and friends tonking it up at the MidWeek Hump (helping us get over Wednesdays!). And, by the way, Cliff's wife Tina runs the cheerful Cafe Bravo below the theatre where one can always get really good coffee and great food at an extremely reasonable price - if you wish to eat and also see a show, it will likely not set you back more than R 140 (the meal being R40).
Now I think that's a fine reason to spend an affordable winter weekend in the country - stay cozily @ Chez Nous, do the wine route, visit the chocolatier, have a sundowner at the Tulbagh Hotel and drift across the road for a delicious meal and take in a good show... how bad??
Check www.saronsberg-theatre.com for the forthcoming programme...

Better safe than sorry...

2011-04-11T14:30:00.004+02:00

Chez Nous was recently visited by Witzenberg Brandblussers, who have installed fire extinguishers in all the cottages and mounted a couple of larger ones outside against any fire hazard eventuality; these are thereafter serviced annually. In addition, all the maintenance has been done - rising/falling damp, touching up here and there, squeaky hinges, wobbly toilet seats, etc. etc. - it feels good to have ticked that box in time for winter! One of the more irritating (and bigger) jobs was to replace several large beams in the outside pergola, which are steadily being munched by woodborer - all because the builder used untreated poles!! The trouble is they eventually become quite porous, and when the winter rains come will absorb a lot of water and run the risk of breaking - I simply can't afford to have the structure collapse either on a guest or their vehicle. So needs must... but all in all I am not complaining, it is merely dealing with the joys that any homeowner is heir to... Now I must stock up on dry firewood before the season finally turns, which traditionally happens around Eastertime. Speaking of which, only one cottage is still available for that period and also the long weekend at the end of the month.
In the meanwhile we are enjoying being able to snuggle under a duvet again and being able to walk the dogs in the cool of the morning and the stars are truly magnificent at night. The first weak cold fronts are starting to push their fingers through the poort and we have actually had a few drops of rain - can hear the little tree frogs clicking gleefully. And the malachite sunbirds are simply loving the hedges of Cape honeysuckle - I would post a pic but the little devils are too quick for me!

ABSA Cape Epic

2011-04-04T14:45:00.003+02:00

WOW - we have survived the onslaught - of 1200 riders, their supporters, sponsors and the media entourage - through our little village, which didn't know what had hit it! It was amazing to see the tented city erected on Saronsberg estate and witness the efficiency of the whole operation.
Chez Nous was full to bursting with premium package riders, as highly strung as racehorses - Norwegians, Germans, British, Zimbabwean and two South Africans. Being a self-catering establishment it was quite a shock to the system to have to provide a fairly elaborate breakfast at 05h00 three days running... I believe it was a very tough course (planned by Dr Evil) which saw them taking a lot of strain. One team of ladies that stayed with me were placed 2nd on the 1st day, 1st on the 2nd day and ended finally in 3rd place - fantastically well done!

Tulbagh has relapsed rather thankfully into sleepy hollow status after that rush of adrenalin - we wonder if they will be back next year?

Moon Madness

2011-03-23T20:25:00.004+02:00

Last Saturday eve we inspanned the 4x4s to journey up Oudekloof pass (which in days of yore used to be the only way in and out of our valley - ox waggon tracks are still deeply scored into the rocks) to witness the setting of the sun over the Swartland and the simultaneous rising of the full moon over the Witzenberg. Not entirely sure whether the supermoon was internet hype, but nonetheless it was very special to sup champagne in the company of like-minded friends and feel smug about the privilege of living here...

I include a shot of Voelvlei - one of the three great feeder dams for the Cape metropole - even at only 30% of its capacity still an impressive sight. Good fishing is to be had there for enthusiasts - Silwerfontein regularly hosts angling competitions.

It also felt like the last swelteringly hot weekend of summer - but up on the nek there was a blissful breeze and the moonlight certainly very bright... This week has brought a welcome coolness and I have so enjoyed seeing bridal veils of rain temporarily obscuring the Groot Winterhoek - a sight not seen for several months!

Zipadeedoodah, Zipadeeday!

2011-03-23T16:22:00.006+02:00

So now I too have sampled the latest in adventure tourism!!
Courtesy of Ceres Zipslide Adventures management, us guesthouse owners were offered an "educational". With some trepidation the bravest (foolhardiest?) souls among us presented ourselves at the appointed hour - it was interesting to note we were all girls, the guys chickened out!
Well, what a treat - and so professionally managed. Although not fearing for my safety, I must confess I nearly poeped in my socks when being launched into space on the very first slide, but by the third I was getting quite blase! There are 8 slides in total top to bottom and they are putting in some more over the dam, which will eventually make it the longest route in the world! It is wonderfully exhilarating to be in pristine nature, swinging above the canyon carved by the river in the Skurweberg. Here is evidence...

PS : If risk-averse me can do it, so can you! See www.ceresadventures.co.za for further info.

Autumn approaches!

2011-03-16T09:12:00.000+02:00

We have had such a long, hot summer and no rain since the sudden thunderstorm on New Year's Day - a clap of thunder woke the entire village at 05h30! - that we are simply longing for that kinder season of mists and mellow fruitfulness. There are, however, encouraging signs - the sun is taking longer to raise itself over the Witzenberg to the east; there is dew on the grass in the mornings and a delicious coolth in the air; the temperature of the water in Warthog Wallow has dropped to a refreshing degree. I love the inbetween seasons, especially autumn with its rich palette of colours in the vineyards. Tulbagh is a wonderful base from which to explore the surrounds of the lovely Breede valley and the amazing mountain passes leading to and from it. Below is a pic of my friends' farm at Fraaigelegen, showing the evening light on the majestic Witzenberg - they call this section "the elephants' trunks"! Do yourselves a favour...and pay us a visit!

A pretty summertime collage...

2011-02-08T14:29:00.000+02:00

I love my little garden - it gives me pleasure to create a tranquil space around Chez Nous' cottages. And now I have a great gardener who helps me keep it up to the mark. Lunga comes from the Ciskei and is not quite competent in either English or Afrikaans, but he is cheerful and hardworking and endears himself to me by singing as he works... (I too sing in the local choir so I know he is woefully out of tune, but it is the expression that counts!) Due to language difficulties I have to demonstrate how to do things, and have been known to do the fandango over misunderstandings - whereupon the long-suffering young man simply waves his hands around expressively saying "Sorry, sorry, Mma!"
So the aggies were amazing and the bouganvilla has been bounteous and the hyacinth is blooming prolifically in the pond. My darling old neighbour Oom Basie (now deceased) planted a wonderful screen of Mexican trumpet flower between our properties - I am sorry he isn't around to see its glory this year. When putting the refuse out very early this morning I surprised an entire hive of bees humming happily among its many-splendoured tentacles...

The Tulbagh Kreepykrawly

2011-02-08T13:27:00.003+02:00

The south-easter is the prevailing summer wind around these here parts. Fortunately it is never for long, as I find wind can saw on the nerves... We are actually sheltered from the worst when she really blows, being in just over the knock of the hill as one enters Tulbagh from Wolsley/Ceres side (think the voorvaders sited the dorp very well!) BUT it does mean work for the gardener (leaves!) and dust in the pool. Being only a cuddle puddle, Warthog Wallow does not need a full time kreepy, so here is my oldest son performing the job manually. He would kill me if he knew I put this pic on my blog, but it is a miracle that he could be persuaded to do this chore cheerfully! Must be the heat...

An Update at Last!

2011-02-08T13:07:00.001+02:00

I seem to have skipped over almost the whole summer season here in Tullieland, although I was actually home over the festive season this year and Chez Nous was very busy with comings and goings. In December I sent out a newsletter to my friends about 2010 which included the following info:

We had good early winter rain but rather less subsequently, so the spring flowers were not great - but thankfully the town dam is full. At the moment a few scraggly jacs are in bloom – they don’t really belong in the Western Cape, but I notice people often stop on my pavement to take photies of the village because the purple haze accentuates the striking white moederkerk and the blue peaks of the Winterhoek beyond. The wheat harvest is almost in already, showing that the season is a good few weeks ahead of itself; the dogs and I are forever having to leap into the ditch to allow huge harvesters to squeeze past!

After a fairly cool spring the ground temperature has only now come up sufficiently for us to swim in Warthog Wallow. As we approach the summer solstice the mountains shimmer in the heat haze like dreams of themselves - that is, when the prevailing south-easter isn’t pomping! But we don’t complain about that, because it’s air-conditioning for grapes! – and, ah, those glorious, green vineyards stretching forever through the fertile valleys of the beautiful Boland...

Tulbagh is truly beautiful in every season of the year. Not only are we privileged to live in a most marvelous part of the world, in the country one is especially aware of the glorious procession of the seasons because we live so close to them!

On a roll...

2010-10-06T11:52:00.001+02:00

While I'm about it (had to actually reset my password to get into my own blog!!) thought would eulogise a little on the glories of Spring. It is such a lovely season in Tulbagh, with mild temperatures and bright with birdsong. As evening falls, the air is scented by a myriad of flowering plants. I have gone for simplicity and water-wise planting in my garden - we have a very long, hot and dry summer to contend with! - yet I still have a jasmine creeper and a couple of syringa trees. I know lastmentioned are alien invaders from Australia, but they give one three seasons of pleasure - now the blossom, later a generous shade, and during winter a Japanese-like fretwork of ochre seed pods against the blue sky.
Pictured here are gloriously coloured vygies - also typical of the season - sadly not in my garden, but I'm planning on planting some!

Spring has well & truly sprung!

2010-10-06T11:12:00.001+02:00

I have neglected my little blogspot shamefully of late - due to general busyness on several fronts!

Our Spring Show (an equestrian event of note) has been and gone, most of which I spent working at the Lion's pancake stand. Attendance was good, so we made some money for a good cause. Inbetween I did manage to catch a glimpse of the events taking place in the arena - those horses are surely break-your-heart beautiful! Also a tour of the Spring flower display, which was an amazement - volunteers comb the surrounding mountainsides for examples of the local flora (very carefully, for they are all protected species) and array the hall with their natural beauty in as lifelike a setting as possible, complete with mini-waterfall.
Chez Nous was buzzing with visitors, whom I think had a very good time for they all wish to return next year! I'm told the SA Championships (for horses) will also be taking place in Tulbagh during November 2011.

Country Living

2010-07-27T13:34:00.005+02:00

Unsurprisingly Chez Nous hosts quite a number of people while they check out property in the area. With the internet setting people free from offices, more couples are exercising the option to raise their children in the country. Tulbagh boasts a very special dual-medium primary school in beautiful surrounds on a local farm (see www.rtps.co.za), which both my boys have happily attended. They go on from this small pond as weekly boarders to the wider world - the choice of superior high schools in the Boland being exceptional.

Chez Nous also sees those who have come to the end of their working lives and wish to relocate to the country. Better here than a windy coastal resort, and property is still reasonably priced - my friend Nelia will be glad to show you her portfolio (google www.seeff.com).

For myself, I can only attest that the quality of village life far surpasses that of town - both in terms of convenience and conviviality!

The wonders of winter

2010-07-17T14:53:00.006+02:00

A week of wild, wintry weather has left a legacy of deep snow on the mountains. Seen from afar it serves only to enhance their majesty. On the first day of the new term I took my youngest to school - bit of a shock to get up in the dark! - to find the fields coated in white frost; for a dreadful moment I thought I was back in Gauteng!! Upon returning home I found the dog's water bowl frozen an inch thick - unheard of in Tullieland, where our winters are famously mild.

Thankfully it has warmed up and, as always between cold fronts, we are looking at a fair spell of sunshine. Already the verges are starred with pink and yellow clover interspersed with tiny white daisies, presaging Spring. Some young couples are visiting, engagement rings sparkling, checking the area out for a blissful summer wedding - or perhaps they see the winter beauty and prefer that?

So many benefits to winter - the joy of a hot drink and a warm bed; basking in the sun like a dassie on a rock... We took advantage of the quieter season to slip away to the south-east coast, which also has a wonderful winter micro-climate. Lovely to go and see and do and explore - but great to get back home! Last weekend a posse of friends made the pilgrimage to Darling, sweetie - to see an iconic Pieter Dirk Uys show - and tonight we are at our local Saronsberg theatre for the Afrikaans version of Tuesdays with Morrie. Not to mention choir practice, wine club, book club, a curry fest and community spirit with the Lions... yet another special week in the country.

Proudly South African

2010-07-12T21:18:00.006+02:00

And so the SWC has been and gone... I am soooooo thankful the huge tournament reflected well on our lovely country - surely first-time visitors must have thought they had died and gone to heaven?? Unfortunately not one ventured as far afield as Tulbagh; it has in fact been unusually quiet in these here parts... But we look to the future - it is said that waves of tourism are generated by these mega-events in the years to come. And here is a pic of a patriot - my dear little grandson Matthew. Even we ventured into Cape Town (via public transport nogal) to do the fan walk, visit the fan park et al - what a wonderful experience of general goodwill!
I feel very proud to be a South African!!

Christmas in Winter

2010-06-06T15:15:00.003+02:00

Yes, we are already almost halfway through the year and this annual event is scheduled for 25 - 27 June.

Please be advised Chez Nous is fully booked already - also for the other event of note in our town - the Spring Show 22 - 25 September. But do come and stay in between times, it is a lovely season with the waterfall running strongly (worth a visit - and the intrepid can hike up Ontongskop). As added attractions there is the new vintage of wines just bottled (the Tulbagh Cellar's sauvignon blanc truly hits the spot), our wonderful chocolatier (www.schoonderzicht.com/monikix.html) plus some good shows on at the Saronsberg theatre (www.saronsberg.com/theatre.html) not to mention great food to be had around various crackling logfires...
Check Paddagang's new website out (www.paddagangrestaurant.com). By the way our friends there offer Chez Nous guests a full English breakfast for the very reasonable price of R 45 per head.

Getting connected...

2010-05-26T12:07:00.006+02:00

My children are amazed that the No-No Bird (as they so charmingly refer to me - suppose marginally better than the Dodo?!) has succumbed to some technology... With the advent of TopTV - hooray! some competition for dreaded DSTV, who have had us over a barrel for so many years - and anticipating the looooooong school winter holiday (not to mention the fact that we are facing wall-to-wall soccer on the public broadcaster) a dish recently settled on Chez Nous' roof. This means the cottages will now have the option of an entertainment channel as well as local-is-lekker. And did I mention that guests can also access the internet via my WiFi free of charge?

Quite amazing for a rural backwater, not to mention a good deal!

A Brilliant Weekend

2010-05-17T21:20:00.005+02:00

As always, the weather in between the cold fronts (which bring our very welcome rain!) is absolutely fabulous - mild, sunny and the landscape feels new-minted. The first flushes of green are appearing in the newly-ploughed fields and I am actually quite stiff from weeding - or maybe that's from bopping? It was a truly brilliant weekend both weather-wise and socially. As always so much going on in Tullieland, several birthday parties and a housewarming (featuring rock band The Blues Broers - think they raised the roof, never mind wet it!). The Cape honeysuckle is in full bloom and I have unsuccessfully been trying to photograph the exquisite pair of malachite sunbirds feeding in it... the rotters are just too quick!
I must tell you South Africans surely get around - checking out our very beautiful country. Listening to their itineraries, I often wish I could tag along! (Did I mention I am looking for a bokkie with a serious bakkie? - would like to see Namibia and the Richtersveld etc etc etc...) However, autumn, along with spring, is the time to trek around these specific parts - chiefly wind still and mostly reliably good weather...
Chez Nous was glad to welcome dear people from as far afield as Pretoria and Craddock and not least the Van Zyl brothers from Bloem. They had 'kidnapped' their father in order to bring him down on a sentimental journey to visit people and places from his past. Meeting the oomie, I could see why his sons are so fond of him - he is the epitome of olde-world courtesy and charm. His sons aren't too shabby either - proof that appels val nie ver van die boom af nie! Oom Van Zyl grew up on a fruit farm in the Winterhoek (the apex of our beautiful valley) - I feel sure he would appreciate the similie...

A glorious Autumnal day

2010-05-12T12:40:00.008+02:00

Wow, have we had some wonderful rain recently... the farmers must be so delighted, just in time for the sowing of the winter wheat which will soon be waving greenly on the lands. I hope they have planted some canola inbetween - love the neon yellow colour contrast, especially against the blue mountains with perhaps just a dusting of snow to finish the picture off.... I'll take one anon and you'll see!
This past week has been so wintry I rushed out and bought extra blankets for the new cottages - although they have very efficient panel heaters and electric blankets and are generally very snug and cosy, can't have my guests feeling cold...!! I also exhumed the dreaded winter rags that have been festering in a suitcase in the top cupboard - always that sinking feeling: "Will they still fit?"

Anyway, today is just perfect - wind still and gently warm, with the birds calling gaily to one another in the garden. Amazing how plants respond so much better to rainwater - the grass is definitely greener and the bougainvillea an absolute riot of colour (see pic of courtyard). And on the right is the view from my fabulous voorstoep (how lucky am I?) - the village looks positively as if it has been rinsed clean.
This morning my friends from the little ladies' choir I belong to all piled into Serena (my gorgeous golden Toyota Avanza, also known as the Queen of the Boland) and tootled off to neighbouring Wolseley. There we sang some very pretty ditties for the oldies of Huis Mostertshoek, which were so gladly received - and they gave us a slap-up tea afterwards. We like to spread some sunshine around up and down the valley - on Friday we sing in Wellington and next week in Ceres, with a possible engagement in De Doorns for early June.
PS: I am already taking bookings for the Tulbagh Spring Show - an agricultural and equestrian event of note at the end of September...

Bikers everywhere!

2010-05-02T20:49:00.008+02:00

Well, we have just survived the annual Sharks' Rally which has been held in Tulbagh around Mayday for the past umpteen years. It is a controversial event, not universally welcomed by residents - and I have to say the bikers DO bring a lot of noise along with their restless energy to town! BUT through their sheer numbers they provide a major injection into our local micro-economy. Everyone always feels sorry for the old oomies and tannies in Huis Disa, the old age home, which is unfortunately almost directly adjacent to the rally venue - but I reckon they ought to issue the old dears with earplugs for the weekend and offer the more adventurous souls among them a spin on the back of a Harley!
Chez Nous was pleased to welcome three sets of biking couples and one set of wedding guests - one would have thought an uneasy combination, but everyone was scrupulously well behaved and rubbed along just fine. Fortunately the wedding was held at Roodezandt - yet another of those famed seven wedding venues for seven brides and their brothers. That beautiful farm is quite remote from the buzz in town - situated on the foothills of the Saronsberg, close to the original pass into our valley (where intrepid hikers can still view the tracks of the ox waggons in the nek).

Pictured here is Shaun Fortuin, reigning drag champion in four categories, with his pretty partner Candes Henry. This sweet couple have returned to Chez Nous for the third year running - clearly it brings them luck!
And tonight there are Brazillians staying over, just passing through Tulbagh... We are nothing if not cosmopolitan in this neck of the woods! And we have been blessed with wonderful autumnal weather - the bikers recall it was bitterly cold this time last year. This year most of them were shirtless (in order to show off their tattoos?) with leather waistcoats adorned with many badges of rank.

Tulbagh winding down to winter

2010-04-29T17:12:00.018+02:00

Apart from fast becoming wedding-country, there are many other attractions which draw visitors locally and abroad to our tiny hamlet. We are definitely not Sleepy Hollow during winter - far from it, there is such a vibrant variety of things to do! Soon there will be snow on the peaks of the Winterhoek - turning our little village into a picture postcard scene that could easily be in Switzerland... And yet it is not perishingly cold - only bracing! And of course you will be snug in Chez Nous' cozy cottages - they all have heaters, comforters and electric blankets.
Tourism is promoting the Witzenberg Winter Escape - offering a wonderful variety of eco, adventure and sommer gewone lekker wegbreekgeleenthede ("ordinary" things like winetasting at a myriad of amazing wine estates and do you know we have a fabulous chocolatier?). Some discerning folk come specially to Tulbagh for a show at the Saronsberg Theatre - check their forthcoming programme out on www.saronsberg.com - and a meal at one of our numerous restaurants.
Of course the last weekend in June always features our annual "Christmas in Winter" festival - where, amongst many other delights, you can glug gluhwein and rock with Santa. Chez Nous has only one cottage left for hire - within walking distance of all the town has to offer - so do be quick if you want to snap it up!

Walking with Wozzles

2010-04-21T21:30:00.010+02:00

And so we got smacked by the first cold front of autumn - what bliss to have some rain after so many dry months, and feel the earth soak it up gratefully... I love this time of year - to lie in bed at night and feel the peace settle into one's bones with only the clicking of a few tree frogs to disturb. The farmers are assiduously preparing to sow the winter wheat - every windstill day there are little columns of smoke as they burn the stubble of the old year's crop and then plough the ashes in as fertiliser. It makes for a hazy, misty season during which the mountains rise majestically above. This is also the season when energy returns after the lassitude of the very warm days, and the dogs and I enjoy it muchly! Here we are about to set off of an evening from the parking entrance to Chez Nous.

Our favourite walk is out along the Schalkenbosch road. In two ticks we are out of the village and in this great bowl of mountains where one can appreciate the breadth of the valley without human habitation to distract. We seldom encounter another soul, except perhaps a farmer in his bakkie, who slows down so as not to leave us choking in a dust cloud. Here we see sheep and cattle picking over the harvested fields, and sometimes even Blue Cranes - such elegant fowl - wonderful to see their numbers increasing in the face of extinction. I like to reach the dam by dusk, when the mountains turn pink in the evening light, and watch a flock of white sacred Ibis take flight, wheel and turn like synchronised confetti. I can let the dogs off the leash and they can run unfettered - just wish Muffin did not have a penchant for puddles and the marshy remnants of the dam!
By the way, "wozzles" is a euphemism for dogs - the black one is Schnizzles, also known as Schnozzle-wozzle - so thereby hangs the tail...

Getting hitched?

2010-04-18T20:12:00.011+02:00

Another weekend with a full house of wedding guests... I really feel this is my niche, because Chez Nous offers the opportunity for a family group of between 8 and 10 persons to stay comfortably together in the same convenient venue.

This past weekend's visitors did not know each other, but they all had a great time exploring our little village and then attending a wedding at Morgansvlei - one of seven wedding venues in our valley. Check it out on www.morgansvlei.com - you will surely agree it is a magnificent location. I think the brides (and grooms) are deeply blessed to hold their special event in such spectacularly beautiful surrounds at a very reasonable price, compared to more developed areas closer to Cape Town.

One of Morgansvlei's more unusual facilities is a cricket oval; I had the pleasure of hosting the umpire of a match held earlier in the week (as a prelude to yet another wedding!). Now, isn't that a good idea - pitting the two families against each other in a friendly so that they get to know one another before the actual bunfight?

By the way, one guest was Andre Claassen who offered me his business card - he and his wife Selma are photographers of note and can be found on www.expphoto.co.za. In the same breath, however, I must mention that we have some great local photographers - Norman Collins, Liesl Basson, Leon Hough and Rosette Jordaan.

And also by the bye, my guests told me the food was fabulous - catered by my dear friend Hettie Lombaard (Tel 023 230-0181) - especially the pumpkin muffins with caramel sauce...

Autumn in the Boland

2010-04-07T14:16:00.016+02:00

And so Easter has come and gone... As always, the season turns with that weekend!
Being drier than the Cape, we are experiencing champagne days with deep blue skies and a pleasant little nip in the night air which encourages one to snuggle under the duvet. The busyness of the roads is declining as the urgency of harvest comes to an end in this farming community; the vineyards are beginning to turn yellow and rust and the nights bristle crisply with stars.
I harvested my olives - rather fewer this year because of building operations and also they bear better every second year - and have begun the long process of leaching the bitterness from them. Whilst preparing them, I marvelled at man's ingenuity at spotting the oil content and then also working out how to make them edible - even the hungriest bird doesn't try to peck one!
I am also enjoying the last few swims in Warthog Wallow - really refreshing as the ground temperature has dropped. In high summer the pool is actually the temperature of the blood. Here I am with old Muffin enjoying the high life.

The frog that quacked

2010-03-23T14:30:00.005+02:00

I kid you not, this really happened!
One mild summer's eve our ears were assailed by a frightful cacophony... Convinced my neighbours had acquired ducks, we rushed outside to investigate. (A not unreasonable assumption, since they do keep chickens and it took all my persuasive skill to get them to put Mr Rooster - who did not know the difference between false dawn and dawn; in fact, I suspect he was just plain insomniac - in the pot for Xmas!) Having ruled out this option (and apologised mentally to neighbours) I switched on the light which illuminates the magnificent palm tree in our back garden. A hyacinth filled fishpond nestles at its base - and there we espied Monsieur Frog. Unabashed by the limelight, he contined to "quack" voiciferously!
Now, how to catch a frog? My son Marc rose to the occasion. Armed with my plastic gloves and a teatowel, he managed to transfer the Paddasang aspirant into a bucket. Quickly we drove him down to the river and gave him his freedom. "Have a nice life!" said Marc, bidding him adieu.

Our nights have thankfully been restored to tranquillity - only starlight and the odd cicada intrude. Although there was a nasty aftermath - found a poor pretty goldfish chomped in half, suspect same M. Frog...

Paddasang & Peacocks

2010-03-20T13:22:00.013+02:00

I was amused to find National Geographic bills the male peacock as 'one of the most ostentatiously adorned birds'...
Yesterday I joined a group of friends at one of Tulbagh's nine (yes, can you believe it in such a small village?) restaurants for a sundowner. Rejoicing in the name of Paddagang (frog's passage), it is one of Tulbagh's oldest and best-known. Their house wines produced by the local cellar are known as Paddasang (frog song) - I wonder why?? Historic without being pretentious, it is simply blissful to park off under their wisteria-laden pergola in the courtyard.
It was a perfect evening with glimpses of a fingernail moon and the outline of the Groot Winterhoek mountains through the oak trees. We had come specifically to try the sundowner baskets advertised on our local e-news - these proved very substantial (in Bubbles' inimmitable style!), consisting of spare ribs, calamari and chicken strips, spring rolls, samoosas and onion rings on a bed of french fries with a dipping sauce and liberally sprinkled with cucumber slices, baby tomatoes and sweet bell pepper strips. At R 60 excellent value for two people, and my humungous glass of house wine was only R 14 - with ice it was almost enough to last the whole evening!
Not having been there for awhile, I had a good look at the menu. I had heard favourable reports from my guests, but you understand us locals don't always get out so much. I was really impressed - there is something for everyone with an emphasis on wholesome, traditional Boerekos, sometimes with interesting twists (eg. waterblommetjiebredie with chicken) plus reasonably priced throughout.
None of us needed a jersey even though we lingered late - this is a lovely season now the punishing heat of high summer has passed. On leaving I was amused to find my car liberally crowned with peacock poep - be warned, they roost in the trees of the car park! (this is not a problem at lunchtime, because they are usually peering at you through the windows hoping for a crust).

Brilliant Brinjals!

2010-03-13T13:53:00.006+02:00

One of the really nice things about country living is the sharing in the bounty of the harvest. This week a farmer's wife blessed me with a whole crate of the most amazing aubergines - can you believe the size of them? We will be eating moussaka & melanzane for a goodly while...
Those who have abundance share gladly - it is not unknown for my neighbour Rossouw to stagger across the street with half a monster watermelon, or to find some hanepoot grapes or perfect cling peaches simply left on the doorstep.
One happy memory upon arrival as complete strangers in Tulbagh was an anonymous gift of freshly made steaming cinnamon pancakes wrapped in foil.
Recently I bought two 15kg crates of ripe tomatoes from my friend Rosette (@ R2 per kg) and rendered them down for all those wonderful winter bredies and pasta sauces.
Remember, God's pharmacy tells us the things the land produces in our region are perfectly designed for our health.

Open Day @ Chez Nous

2010-03-10T22:37:00.002+02:00

And so Open Day came and went... with a steady trickle of visitors throughout the day.
It was an opportunity for local people to come and check out what has gone on in my back yard (not obvious from the road) and I think most were pleasantly surprised!
Been there done that - now must get on with other marketing efforts!

Stress test for new accommodation

2010-03-08T13:02:00.006+02:00

This past weekend Chez Nous was stampvol! - with 10 guests (and even 11 at one stage) staying for two and three nights respectively. All went well, I am pleased to say - there was enough parking for everyone, the wedding guests were quiet and considerate when returning in the wee hours. Of course it was perishingly hot (the Man Upstairs clearly not having realised that it is March yet!), so quite a few succumbed to the allure of my dinky little pool, nicknamed Warthog Wallow.
They were all blissfully unaware what frenetic activity had gone on prior to their arrival. I asked a friend to help me out with a bakkie-load of topsoil to make a rockery with - but blow me down this monstrous juggernaut arrived and "Poom!" proceeded to dump 10 cubic metres of best Wolseley "swartgrond" on my pavement in a huge cloud of dust! I had to borrow wheelbarrows and co-opt labour - and vacuum the pool! - but nevertheless it was all carried in and distributed around by the weekend. When the dust has settled with the winter rains, I shall have a garden which will be the envy of the neighbourhood!
In the meanwhile the water hyacinths are blooming blissfully in the fishpond and I was able to pluck some hibiscus and frangipani to put in my hair for a sixties bash.

First guests in new facility!

2010-03-01T20:11:00.003+02:00

Hennie and Trudi Kleynhans from Paulpietersburg were the first guests to stay in Libellule Cottage. They were glad to park off after a busy day's sightseeing and a long drive, content to braai in the garden and watch the mountains turn pink in the sunset light. Hennie even took a pic of the full moon rising over the Witzenberg at dusk - a truly impressive sight! They reported a peaceful night and were kind enough to say Chez Nous is one of the nicest places they have stayed in during their extensive travels throughout SA.
My weekend wedding guests blessed me with a bucketful of beautiful blooms since it was too warm to convey them back to Cape Town in a hot car. Thank you, Janine - I have so enjoyed them!

Roofwetting

2010-03-01T19:11:00.004+02:00

Well, we celebrated properly - with everyone who helped on this little project of mine. I thought I made a very witty speech - at least there was a lot of laughter! - and told them how very glad I was to buy local. Although it was only drinks and snax, most people hung around till almost midnight - we never realised what a lekker klomp we are together until we actually got together!
Thank goodness my camera remained forgotten on my desk or there might have been some seriously incriminating pix. Instead, I offer you a curious cloud formation photographed last week from my lovely voorstoep, with its panoramic view of the valley. How privileged we are to live here!

Funny names

2010-02-09T13:16:00.005+02:00

Wondering why I have called my new cottages by these peculiar names?
Papillon means "butterfly" in French; here is a pic of the migratory Monarch, which I have seen in my garden. Seasonally travelling huge distances, they must rest occasionally - so Papillon Cottage is for those migratory souls who wish to linger awhile...
I don't know if you've ever observed a restless dragonfly - but even these beautiful insects need to hover around for a spell. Hence the name of Libellule Cottage!

Jewel Colours

2010-02-09T12:02:00.007+02:00

I am having fun furnishing Papillon & Libellule cottages. Luckily all the colours I like are in "fashion" at the moment! - and, funnily enough, they echo the colours in a butterfly's wings. It is a big job to equip a cottage from scratch - think about it, right down to the last teaspoon (and don't forget the bottle opener & potato peeler!). On top of that everything has to come from somewhere else, since shopping opportunities are rather limited in Tulbagh. But I'm getting there!
Then, of course, we must sleep over there ourselves, so we can test-drive everything and make sure it is all optimally functional for our guests. Not quite as exciting as a camp-out, but the kids do enjoy it!
First booking in new facility accepted for 20 February - they'll be getting a bottle of champagne!

Hot News!!

2010-01-25T14:22:00.003+02:00

Builders moved off site today!
At last - after many months of labour, owner-builder (aka me) was pleased to take occupation of this gorgeous new facility. I had a super team of local people (believe in investing in the local economy - both labour and suppliers) and am very pleased with the results! Thank you everyone...
I am busily getting the furnishings together (the really lekker part!!) and I shall be holding an open day soon - watch this space!
Bookings accepted from mid-Feb in this brilliant new facility, which will suit a family or two couples. I know you will love staying here as much as I loved putting it together for you!